Always leave something undone when you visit someplace
so that you have a reason to return. The kids had requested to spend our second week of their European adventure in Prague, and we were happy to return for various reasons. Not only were we excited to have dumplings and beer again, to walk the cobbled streets while marveling at the architecture, but also because I had not had a Turtleneck or a potato on a stick, nor had we eaten at Maitrea, the sister restaurant of Clear Head that we had enjoyed in December.
We called the trdelník Turtlenecks as we have a hard time knowing just how to pronounce Czech words. In December we kept passing these little carts and little stores which sell the sugar/walnut mix in a dough spiral, and I somehow never got one. I made sure to not only remedy that this time, but to also share and have the kids get one, too.
In the same spiral food vein, we found a spiral fried potato on a stick (on our way down from the castle – there don’t seem to be these just anywhere), and used this opportunity to have an appetizer.
The travel guides are full of recommendations for restaurants and cafes, but descriptions of two coffee places stood out for us. The Café Louvre (which does not have even a copy of the Mona Lisa on the wall) hosted the likes of Einstein and Kafka among other notable Czech citizens. A perfect way to start the day in this elegant space, I tried the hot cocoa (I can’t quite give that up yet!) which, at first, was a little disappointment since all I tasted was foam. Knowing there had to be more, I gave a little stir and the chocolate not only appeared, but it was so thick that it was like sipping a melted chocolate bar. The cappuccino and espresso drinkers in the group enjoyed theirs, as well, but I think I made the best choice.
If you are looking for fair trade coffees from around the world in a hip place (we were thinking of you, C!), then a visit to Café Ebel is a must. Daughter and son-in-law were so taken with their spice-infused espressos (making me think of Christmas with the cloves) that they knew that it was their favorite part of that day.
Maybe my very favorite food experience (although, really, it would be too hard to choose – we love the food in Prague) might have been our return to Lokal and finally get the dumplings there. Back in December, I had tried to order a side dish of dumplings with my chicken, but was told that I could only have mashed or roasted potatoes. This time I ordered what was called “juicy bits” (parts of pork) which, apparently, paired well with dumplings. The secret, we now think, it that one must order a main dish with gravy in order to be allowed the little medallions.