The Dolderbahn

This post will combine two topics: evening walks and riding up the hill.

We prefer a leisurely stroll after dinner to an uphill climb. On several occasions, we’ve ridden on the Dolderbahn, a cogwheel train that whisks you up to the very posh 5-star Dolder Grand Hotel in six minutes.

At the top
View going up

We walk around the front of the hotel

then look at this view across Lake Zürich.

From here it’s about a 25-minute walk back to our apartment. Now that the sun is setting at 9:00, I’m not out and about to take sunset photos.

Promenade Plantée

Before there was the High Line in NYC (which we visited in 2017), there was the Promenade Plantée in Paris. Like Le Petitie Ceinture, this public space was once home to an elevated railroad line as well as a viaduct. In 1993 it was converted into a 3-mile walk walkway with green spaces and lovely views over the city.

It is in the 12th arrondissement.

Bridge over the Jardin de Reuilly
Can you imagine living in the top apartment – 8 floors of walk-up?

More photos at glampinginswitzerland’s Instagram.

Le Petite Ceinture

Thanks to Atlas Obscura, we read about this abandoned railroad that circled Paris from 1862 to 1934. Le Petite Ceinture means little belt, and these tracks connected the various train stations around Paris.

Now it is not really a secret, as people use the paths along the tracks for strolling, biking, and photography, One enters at places along the edges of the 12th through the 20th arrondissements. We visited two sections. The first was in the 20th very close to our AirBnB.

The other one we found was in the 12th.

I think that some of the tunnels may be open, but we would not have wanted to run into any rats, so we were happy to stay outside.

Commuting Across Town

I don’t actually commute, but I do walk to the American Women’s Club once or twice a week, and here is what I see along the way. First I walk down my street and then down a little road that is closed to through traffic, down some stairs and past the graffiti-covered daycare building.

Then I pass the Careum Campus, a health services school where people are often outside taking a smoking break. If I pass the snack stand (on right), I’ve missed my shortcut through the University Hospital, so I backtrack a few steps.

The University Hospital (Krankenhaus in German, Spital in Swiss German) has a lovely campus with lots of greenery.

Then past the University of Zürich’s Zoological Museum and then look across the street at the beehives.

Down a long flight of stairs and over a bit to the Limmat River.

When I cross the river I am almost half-way to the club. In the heart of the Old Town I pass the Observatory which now houses the Jules Verne Bar, the Manor dept. store where we like to eat breakfast sometimes, and this water fountain.

Another little shortcut leads me through a courtyard with an artist studio, an indoor swimming pool, lots of bikes – some parked, and some I have to watch out for as they ride past. Oh, yes, and a spur from the river.

Past the Selnau Train Station comes the Stauffacher Bridge over the Sihl River (a tributary).

And then I turn down the street for the club and see one of the locals. There is a Jewish girls’ school next door to the AWCZ, and it is not uncommon to see this Orthodox dress in the neighborhood.

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So that’s some of my 35-minute commute across town. When I go home, it expands to 40 or 45 minutes, depending on how fast I want to go up those hills…

The Swiss Diet

You can stop reading all those ads about how to lose weight, glampers, because I have discovered the REAL way. Move to Switzerland. No joke.

At my last physical before I left home, my doctor suggested that I might gain weight this year. He must have been thinking about the cheese and the chocolate. However, he did not take into consideration all these other factors.

1. Food is expensive. Buy less, eat less.

2. Junk food, fast food, processed food is even more expensive. Consume it once every two months or so.

3. Cars are expensive. Don’t own a car. Walk everywhere.

4. Live on a hill. Walk up that hill every day. Carry some of those groceries while you are at it.

5. Live on the top floor of a flat with no lift. Do laundry in the basement.

6. Enjoy cheese and chocolate. A little. Every. single. day. It makes you happy and not feel as though you are on a diet.

We do not have a scale, and I do not know how much I weigh in kilos, although I think I would enjoy that number better than pounds. So, how do I know that I have lost weight? I’ll tell you. I have been wearing the same two pairs of jeans, but when we went out to the raclette dinner (think I really enjoyed it? I keep reliving it! And there was cheese…..) I decided to pull out my nice, new dress pants for the occasion. When I bought them 3 months ago, they fit pretty well – a little loose. Well, I had to have H pin them in about an inch (or 2.5 cm) in the back, otherwise they would have fallen off! I did a little happy dance….

So why are my jeans still fitting? My theory is that because the dryer is really hot, they shrink a little bit each time I wash and dry them. Excuse me while I go grab a piece of dark chocolate….

City Walking

I have read that one could possibly incur a jaywalking fine in Zürich. Most of the time I wait at the light until it is green, but sometimes I see a native (I assume) look both ways and cross on a red. Occasionally I will follow, but mostly I wait. What can I say, I’m an oldest child who mostly follows the rules. Perhaps that’s why I have felt comfortable in this country so far.

Some places are not clearly marked for crossing, so I take chances there. With streets running every which way, it’s hard sometimes to figure out how to get from here to there.

Then there the zebra crossings with no lights. After a few days, we figured out that we look at any oncoming traffic and if they start to slow down, or wave their hand at you, you just go ahead and cross. I would say that about 99% of the time cars will expect you to cross and slow down for you (like they are supposed to in California).

A Yellow Zebra crossing at our closest Migros

A Yellow Zebra crossing at our closest Migros

So, we’ve got this walking thing pretty well figured out just by observing. It did take asking someone, though, about these raised white lines on some of the streets. Turns out they are guides for the blind, and they seem to appear at quite strategic places, like at tram stops and train stations.

You can't see it here, but the white strips are raised, and you can feel them with your feet, or a cane.

You can’t see it here, but the white strips are raised, and you can feel them with your feet, or a cane.

Unplanned Moments

Having read the about the ETH Orchestra (Akademisches Orchester Zürich) Concert, featuring Beethoven’s 2nd Piano Concerto and Shostakovich’s 15th Symphony, we wandered over to the Tonhalle last evening for the concert. Upon arrival it was clear that there were tickets involved, even though the flyer did not mention cost. (It didn’t say it was free, either.) I asked the person in line in front of us how much the tickets were, and she said one section was 40 CHF and the other 30 CHF. I was not too excited about paying $44 or $33 to hear that particular Shostakovich (Beethoven, maybe), and I was also not sure how fabulous the AOZ is, so we sauntered back out and decided to take a post-thunderstorm walk through parts of Zürich that we hadn’t seen yet.

We got a little lost at one point, but managed to find our way home anyway. Here are some pictures of things we saw along the way. So, yeah, always a little Abenteuer (adventure) with us.

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What we call a little assistant river, or canal with swans

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Naked boys playing guitars with a patch over the left eye

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Guys practicing kayak polo